BJEWELED

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Archive for October, 2014

Haunted by Memento Mori: The “Cycles of Life” collection

 

 

From The Bejamin Zucker Cycles of  Life Collection

 

When it comes to seasonal holidays,  I am more a Valentine’s Day girl than one who celebrates Halloween. I prefer cupid’s arrow to a stake through the heart. I also prefer sentimental motifs to skull and cross bones in my jewelry. I remember my first Halloween was spent dressed as a ghost (later came princesses and cowgirls). My mom thought it would be cute to dress me as a ‘friendly ghost’ who could score bowls full of candy while I tried to see through the cut out blackened circles of the eyes and tripped over the length of my homemade costume, crafted from a white twin sheet. It was that year that I saw more grown up ghost, goblin and skeleton costumes with arms carrying shovels and pitchforks. The whole thing terrified me and I couldn’t wait to get back to the safety of my home where I could help my mom separate the wrapped from the unwrapped treats.

 

All these years later I still prefer staying at home, cozying up with a bowl of popcorn and a romantic comedy rather than a scary film. Much in the same way, as a ring collector, I prefer love tokens to Memento Mori styles. With that said, however, I am writing this Halloween post for all those of you who are collectors, purveyors and followers of these rings, created as reminders of mortality, which bear the iconography of skulls, crossbones, worms, snakes, skeletons, and other earthly remains, The idea of wearing a ring, while I am still alive, which lets me know that I will die is a bit too macabre for me. But, after seeing the detailed creations of these pieces in the Benjamin Zucker “Cycles of Life” exhibit and sale, at the launch party at Les Enluminures. I was awe-struck by the intricate design elements, craftsmanship and how these rare rings lived on in amazing condition, long after their original owners were gone.

From the Benjamin Zucker "Cycles of Life" collection  Memorial and Memento Mori Ring. This gold hoop ring is enameled black outside with a white skeleton, a skull, an hourglass, skull and crossed bones, a snake, a crossed pick and shovel; it isinscribed within WH Nov. 18 1661 NOT LOST BUT GONE BEFORE. Alock of the deceased’s hair is inside the hoop. Dated 1661

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The exhibit opens to the public today so before you dress up and go out to parties or take your kids trick-or-treating, it might be fun to stop by and have a peek. It’s worth it to see these rings first hand. The trick to scoring one is to have the knowledge, affinity and the financial means to be able to purchase such an exceptional, authentic piece of history.

 

 

From The Benjamin Zucker Cycles of Life collection Memento Mori Memorial Ring of the 10th Viscount Kilmorey England, c. 1700

For those whose budget won’t allow you to spring for the rings in this collection but would like to own one or more of these styles, there are also dealers throughout the US and abroad whose collections include Memento Mori rings. But, Beware! Trust who you are buying your pieces from. Over the past 10 years, the reproductions have been perfected to look like those from the 15th-18th centuries. So, before you make the grave mistake of purchasing a knock off, do you research, ask as many questions about the provenance and the condition of the ring and if anything has been changed before you buy.

 

In the meantime, Happy Halloween—be safe and have some “spooky” funand find a ring that haunts   you until you must have it.

 

From top to bottom: From the Benjamin Zucker Cycles of Life Collectiion, Memento Mori Ring with white enameling and rose diamonds, skull and crossbones motif, 17th through early 18th centuries;

From the Benjamin Zucker “Cycles of Life” collection
Memorial and Memento Mori Ring.. Dated 1661;

From The Benjamin Zucker Cycles of Life collection
Memento Mori Memorial Ring of the 10th Viscount Kilmorey
England, c. 1700

 

 

 

‘The Spy That Came in From The Rain”: Seeking the Perfect Trench

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When it comes to fashion I am more of a uniform kind of girl. Many of use jewel-aphiles seem to be. I can’t have enough white shirts, black pants and jeans (although I try not to look like a female maitre d’ at meetings). I wear summer dresses in grey, navy, and black for the ease of looking chic while showing off my most coveted antique jewels. I wear those same colors in winter cashmere. I layer. I wear lots of scarves with longer pendants. I stock up on never-out-of-my style items: Wolford leggings in case they ‘make improvements” or discontinue my favs, like some beauty companies annoyingly do with my eye pencil and lipstick. One of my all-time wardrobe classics is a trench coat. But none have moved me in recent years, the way in which Le-Trench has.

 

Maybe it’s the effortless style of being able to wear it with everything else I own, maybe it’s how well this timelessly cool piece has been refashioned by the always stylish and savvy Dianne Vavra (Vice President of Public Relations for Dior Beauty) or how deftly she gives this new version of an cultural fashion statement the ability to show off a necklaces or create sleeves where you can see bangles or a watch. This is my kind of trench and my kind of designer. In addition, Vavra has created her Le Trench in three colors/patterns (more to come) all with romantic and historical descriptions: Le Noir-Black, Le Rouge-Red and my pick- Le Serpent. Not only does this intermix of grey/black/white pattern represent one of my all time favorite motif in jewelry—from the Roman meanings of duality of life to the sentimentality of Queen Victoria’s snake engagement ring and the entwined enduring love symbolism, which continues to live on.

 

Vavra explains, “Le Serpent is a pattern inspired by a woman who entertains adventure and doesn’t always play by the rules.” I could be that woman,” I think as I envision myself as Cleopatra laden in golden snakes jewels.

 

But, aside from my Cleopatra fantasies, I am a sucker for anything that is refashioned after vintage or period pieces and Le Trench definitely has a story to tell: After Vavra found a leopard print trench while scouring a basement of a shop in a flea market in Paris, she realized that not only did it make her outfit that day but was something that would remain in her wardrobe as an enduring staple. After many years of not seeing Diane, she was wearing her leopard print vintage trench and looked like she just stepped out of a fashion spread in Vogue or Harper’s Bazaar.
She then went about creating this iconic fashion item, made famous by the likes of Audrey Hepburn, Catherine Deneuve and Marlene Dietrich and the well-dressed heroines of Alfred Hitchcock films. Think Grace Kelly in “Notorious” or Kim Novak in “Vertigo”.

 

I also love the fact that I can squish up my Le Serpent trench in my bag and then when I take it out, it is completely ready for wear. Nothing like shoving something in my already stuffed tote. But this is one trench I will be wearing rain or shine.

For Product details, please see the website: le-trench.com.

 

Although I am not one for ‘matchy matchy’ I think this works and I just might wear my new trench as soon as I get it with this Art Deco silver serpent bracelet with a simple white T-shirt and grey jeans.

 

my circa 1920s silver snake slither up the wrist bracelet  (Glorious Antiques)

my circa 1920s silver snake slither up the wrist bracelet (Glorious Antiques)

 

Bracelet: 1920s coiled serpent bracelet bought from Glorious Antiques.