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Archive for the ‘Experience Jewelry’ Category

The Charm of Travel

Dogeared Travel Charms

After a recent business trip, I realized that I have a new pet peeve- those women who think they can actually make it through security with an armful of bracelets, multi-necklaces or door knocker earrings. C’mon girls, we all love to stack, pile and layer but do you really think you are getting past the scanner (or burly uniformed guard) like that?  A woman in front of me–who was scantily dressed, wearing a midriff bearing top and shorts, who looked more  like she was going to the beach rather than squished into an overbooked plane– was wearing 27 bracelets.  How do I know? When she was asked to remove them she counted them out before she put them in the dish for small personal items. Slowly.  Extremely Slowly. Examining each one as she slid them every so gingerly off of her wrist.  There was another woman who was wearing gladiator style cuffs that somehow got past the guards but not past the super x-ray machines and the beepers went off.

Hey, I have admitted to being a Jewel-aholic. I am completely understanding of piling on the bling- but there are great little rolls, pouches and fancy cases that aid in your ability to carry your jewelry on so you don’t have to slow down your fellow passengers while you are going through the check points.

I also understand the need for good luck travel charms. I have a necklace with about 19 on them and I wear that with three other necklaces given to me by friends and designers, all meant to bring luck. They all have special meaning for me,and my trips have been safely guided, not by control towers and careful pilots but–and I am absolutely sure of this–the hefty concoction of talisman and amulets I wear around my neck.  I have added to them over the years. But I have also learned, early on to keep them in my bag and put them around my neck on when I got passed security and ONTO THE PLANE.

My advice to all travelers this summer, is to A) try to pack light, and B) place whatever jewelry you must take into a pouch and C) please don’t try to get a 6 oz bottle with 2.4 ounces of lotion left in it…through. You are not fooling anyone. They have special measuring eyeballs that will catch you out and make you dispose of your favorite cream. For all of you boot and sock wearers in summer, I have two words for you…Flip flops. Be considerate of the passengers behind you. We’d like to get to our gates at least before we have that other little annoyance of finding out our flights have a four-hour delay.

For those who are superstitious, but unlike me, don’t need to be weighed down  with a pound of talisman on a ball chain, I recommend Dogeared Travel Charms which are stylish, protective and lightweight. Plus as their packaging says: “they have a saint that’s got your back.” They come three  for luck on leather cord or chain in sterling silver or dipped gold.

No Place Like Home…

My Mother

I will never get used to Mother’s Day.  It’s been eighteen years since my mom died suddenly at fifty-five from a brain aneurysm and I still want to throw something at the TV when commercials urge me to buy that special piece of jewelry or show me the joy a mother feels when she opens the perfect Hallmark card. Emails fill up my inbox, informing me every day for two weeks prior, what flowers ‘my mother’ would like to receive and when to order them to be delivered to her on time.  I hit the delete button quickly just like I do when I get, what seems to be hundreds of press releases on “elegant, new, fresh Mother’s day ideas” or “must have gifts.”

I apologize to all the publicists out there and the companies they represent. I read your material at all other times throughout the year.

It’s comes with the territory when writing for a jewelry magazine to be assigned this seasonal story and each year I stare at the blank computer screen, struggling to come up with the copy. One day, I hope to get it done without breaking down and into tears while trying to describe something so simple as a charm, locket or an engraveable keepsake. There are truly beautifully designed pieces, created by jewelers; stores do an incredible job of advertising and there are plenty of moms that I know, worthy and deserving of a special day and gift to celebrate and recognize their love and guidance. Mine was one of them.

My mom preferred hand-picked daisies to perfectly arranged bouquets of flowers, a box of Mallomars to Godiva chocolates, my attempts at poetic verse and my brother’s unintelligible drawings to store-bought cards.

She’d send my grandmother a ticket to come up from Florida so that she could have her own mother as well as children around her. Yesterday I went to Union Square market in New York City and bought bunches of lilacs like my mom and I used to do a few hours before my grandmother would arrive. For a few moments, when I was re-cutting the stems, my apartment smelled like home.

I can remember, like it was yesterday, when the three of us would pretend to be the Supremes with deodorant cans as microphones, when my mother showed me how to find rainbows in puddles on the ground and when she talked me out of wearing my glittering sequined spangled nightgown (bought to dress up in at home) to nursery school.

She was my style guru from the time I could tell ballet pink from a bright Bubblegum hue, much in the way Diana Vreeland was to many a fashion editor and Audrey Hepburn was to women all over the United States. My mother had them beat.  A mix of Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey herself, she was a runway and bridal fit model, studying to be an actress before she met and married my father– and after they divorced–she was a VP for a well-known clothing company. She knew colors and fabrics, she had taste, style and dressed in all the latest fashions as long as I can remember.  In the sixties and early seventies she traveling to London with my dad for business, she maxi-d, midi-d and shimmied in short mini dresses from Mary Quant and those found on Carnaby Street. In the seventies, at only 35, liberated from a less than perfect marriage but still with the responsibility of raising three unruly kids, she gave up her little sheath dresses for elephant bells, and traded in her charm bracelet dangling with discs of her children for macramé beaded styles and Zuni turquoise cuffs.  I remember, propping myself up on her vanity, while she took more things off than she put on, allowing me to play dress up next to her with the pieces she rejected, while she applied blush and a little eye liner to make me feel more grown up.    But I also never forgot this lesson later in life: ‘that the woman is supposed to wear the jewelry and clothes, not the other way around.” In the eighties, she did what every New York woman did and counted on basic black; she didn’t stray far from the pack and fell in love with Donna Karan’s ease of dressing, adding a piece or two of Robert Lee Morris sculptural jewelry and found herself wearing more of vintage pieces of cut steel, onyx and filigree.  My grandmother asked why  ‘her two girls’ felt the need to look like two Sicilian women in mourning.”
“We both did a medley of ‘thinner! easier to get out of the house.. to accessorize…and…what other color would we possibly wear?”  While my mom’s wardrobe was dark, her heart was light.

As style savvy as she was, she was also down-to-earth-and got the most pleasure from the simple things in life–the first hint of summer when she could go to the beach and feel her toes in the hot sand; on Mother’s Day, she opted for a ‘great slice of Pizza, a Coney Island hot dog or good Chinese.”

When she got remarried to my stepfather, she wore a simple antique wedding band: she liked her jewelry discrete and her displays of affection and love to be measured by how tight you could hug. I’m not sure I ever held on long enough.

There were things that were passed down, some in the genes, like the fact that I was blessed, not with her perfect nose but with her humongous feet, her propensity for worry the fine art of manipulation by guilt. I hope I also inherited some of her style, her big gush-y heart and her ability to appreciate family and always remember their favorite things.

My friends often think that ruby is my coveted gemstone because of its fiery connections to romance and passion but my mother knew. Ever since she scrunched under the table where I was hiding out (before you could fast forward) from the Wicked Witch when I was four. “Wait until you see what happens next,” she coaxed me out and into the safety of her arms on the couch–and there they were–the ruby slippers on Dorothy’s feet–the ones that transported her back to where she belonged.

My mom and I watched two movies every year–The Wizard of Oz for me, and in the beginning, It’s  A Wonderful Life for her (now another of my favorites.)

Today, when I smell the lilacs, go out for the perfect slice of pizza, think of both my mom and my grandmother (who passed away last year, just shy of her 97th birthday), I will celebrate Mother’s Day, quietly, with a mix of longing, loss, love, sentimentality, humor and warmth…thinking always of her beauty, understanding and acceptance of me and recalling how we always clicked our heels together three times– and whenever I think of her, living on inside of me, I will feel… home.

The Princess and Personal Style

Sammie at 3 accessorized in power bracelets

Today I was posting a photo of my niece and her best friend when they were around five years old on FB, in honor of their fifteenth birthday.  I can’t fathom, for the life of me, how they got so much older, while I miraculously stayed the same age… That aside– the process of posting their pics took me back to memories of–parties and presents past. I couldn’t help thinking about how we start out wanting to be just like all our friends and then wind up wanting autonomy– how we learn throughout the years about what does and what doesn’t fit our personal styles.

In the beginning, there were princess parties with my niece Sammie wanting to be the southern beauty Belle with a bib necklace, Jasmine with the exotic jewels and Cinderella, who went from rags to riches, and basically piled on everything (a look my niece came to adore).  There were Alice in Wonderland tea parties with over the top pieces: large floral cocktail rings, and animal motifs necklaces and earrings.

By the time she was six, we’d pile basket full of trendy, inexpensive, costume jewelry up at Claire’s. She’d hold up dangly earrings to her ears, pile power bead bracelets up her arm to her elbow and layer necklaces down her (THEN)  tiny chest.  She started emulated Amanda Byne in What a Girl Wants instead of Ariel in Little Mermaid .

Two years later I was called in to host her  ‘jewelry birthday party’ and teach a group of eight year old girls how to create bracelets  out of stretchy wire and all different kinds of colorful beads, charms and silver initials.  Around this time, my niece started trying to separate her own style from her pack .”My favorite color is green now, but I like it mixed up with a bit of purple and blue, and I don’t want it too girly or matchy-matchy.  I want it more bohemian,” she explained.

“Where did you learn these words?” I asked.  “From you, of course,” she said.

When she got her ears pierced, she wants hoops and studs and frogs and moons and a variety of other motifs–all cute and age appropriate–and then, last year, soon after she had turned 14, she had told me that she had pierced two more holes in her cartilage. What did your mom say I asked. “She freaked. But dad calmed her down.”  Luckily my brother was used to situations like this, since  I came home at approximately the same age with two more holes in my left and one more in my right ear, pierced with a sewing needle and ice by some guy named Vinny.

Throughout the years she’s gone through the feminine right of passage: she  has tried on the styles of her favorite pop stars and celebrities and traded friendship bracelets (that have come back into style) with her BFFs.  She still doesn’t like anything “matchy, matchy,” or too overwhelming, preferring pieces that add to and compliment her look. She’s into  mixing up tough and tender, has gotten the hang of  goth girl goes feminine and  rock and roll goes retro. Since she is still in high school, she will continue (for a while longer) to have a similar style as her friends, although many of the times she has her own take on what works best for her.

Recently she told me “Big funky rings,  dangly earrings or multi studs for her multi holes, macrame and leather bracelets and long necklaces. ”

Although, she sounds and looks all grown up, (something I am getting a real charge from my younger brother as a dad, having to navigate )–she  will always be the sparkly  princess,  the little girl in a tiara, dumping my  jewelry box over on my bed and draping herself in layers of necklaces, piles of bracelets, with strands of  Mardi Gras beads worn as royal sashes–the more glitz and twinkle the better– And  I wish  her the happiest of birthdays this year! I know that however she celebrates (she has not divulged this info just yet), that she will look beautiful in whatever she wears  and always, in her ongoing development of her personal style.

For all of you who have daughters, nieces, friends and other family members…a few companies to try out for great gifts for teens: Dogeared who has every trend imaginable, Kacey K for well priced 14K gold, Katie Diamond for great pendants and stud earrings in real gemstones and  vermeil and Kamofie’s new line of friendship bracelets on various colored leather.

Sammie at 7 in her retro phase

Sammie at 14 in layered pendants

Sammie at 14 in drop turquoise and silver earrings.

Dogeared Bracelets

Kacey K double finger Love ring

Sofia Kaman for Kamofie's double floral circle friendship bracelet

The Art of Necking

Anne Sportun graduated moonstone & 14K gold necklaces

When I started this blog, we were shifting from fall to spring 2010 and I knew I would be wearing tanks and sleeveless tops. My first post dealt with, how, in the winter, your triceps inexplicably lose their tone and you don’t know what’s jingling your arms or your bangles. Back then, my chisel and sculpt instructor gave me tips and helped me to get back into shape, so that I could dare to bare some skin and pile on my favorite stack of bracelets.

In addition to firming up my arms, he has helped me work on my abs, gluts and “pecs” too, although I’m not quite sure they will ever be in the same place or condition they once were. Read: perky and uplifted. I do the best I can.

And, although, I gave up my belly chain long ago and do not have any piercings except in my ear lobes (which gravity also seemed to have taken down) I have come across an area I never gave much thought to. No, not my ankles. Somehow they have remained untouched by time and still, look tight and taut and thin–though unfortunately no one looks down while talking to me.

What people do tend to look at is the face, which is why I went to my dermatologist for a little rash that appeared under my eye. After advising me it could be cured with a dab of Aquaphor, he asked gently and ever so helpfully “Would you like a little Botox in your neck.”

“Excuse me?” I asked. He pulled some skin from this one area I had not been worried about. Crinkly eyes and wrinkly forehead–maybe–but my once long, swan-like neck had– without me noticing–turned to chicken skin.

Famous author Nora Ephron wrote the bestselling I Feel Bad About My Neck— which I own–and now I’m thinking, time possibly to– re-read?

I graciously turned the doctor down from jabbing my jugular with botulism, but I left his office, concerned about my penchant for multi-layering pendants and chains.

I realized that there was no equivalent to crunches, squats, lunges, curls and dips for toning up a sagging neck.

For now, it’s still akin to Antarctica here in NYC, so I am covered in cowl and high turtlenecks, and wrapped in shawls and scarves, but come spring I have decided to engage in aging gracefully. Maybe, I’ll add a neck cream to my beauty arsenal (if I can find space on the vanity–wait, maybe I can make room- it appears that at least one of these anti-aging serums is definitely not working).

And when the warm weather rolls around, I will continue to wear delicate layered pieces. I believe that the woman (of a certain age) who try to camouflage with bib styles and chokers are just drawing more attention, but that’s just my opinion.

Some of the graduated looks I recommend highly are Anne Sportun’s moonstone and gold styles, Alberian & Aulde’s 3-for luck looks, mixed nonchalantly with Irene Neuwirth’s moonstone bezel set chain. I am a fan of the unstudied appeal of John Apel’s colored sapphire and diamond station looks in mixed metals, and the elegant combination of Penny Preville’s long diamond accented signature station chains with Sethi Couture’s grey polished rough diamond bead necklaces, a white diamond bead chain and antique pendant, made from one drop earring (Tip–should you ever lose half of pair, like I did ; don’t fear, if they are the right style; you can always revamp them into some other sparkly adornment that just might have people talking about your jewelry rather than your neck–(one can only hope)

John Apel's mixed sapphire chains

Bottom to top: Penny Preville, Diamond bead chain, Sethi Couture's grey diamond chain, antique pendant

I’m Worth It

Moritz Glik

Unlike May West, who was quoted as saying–“I have always felt a gift diamond shines so much better than one you buy for yourself!” –I believe that all jewelry you purchase yourself suggests that you are independent, self-sufficient and, whether set in earrings, a pendant, or even a ring, allows your personality to shine.

When buying your own jewelry, there is no need to leave hints, cutouts of magazines or mastermind covert operations with your favorite retailers to get what you want. You go in, see it, have to own it, and usually with a little ping of the cash register and your signature, you get the unbelievable rush of walking out with a piece of jewelry that bespeaks something about who you are.

Over the summer I blogged about being a jewel-aholic, a name coined for me by close friend and majorly talented designer, Moritz Glik (diamond and sapphire earrings featured here). I have admitted to my addiction and have even tried to control my urges. But there is a special attraction I have for little something that lights up the face, sparkles from a finger…(or two), and glistens around the wrist.

For much of my life, I’ve been either a serial monogamist or in-between boyfriends. I’ve been given jewelry that ranged from silver artisan sculptures of  (what the heck, I still can’t begin to figure it out) to sweet, girley pave hearts of all sizes to hard-edged skull and cross bone delights. These guys were buying for how they envisioned me, rather than who I was.  There were other scenarios: An ex, who re-gifted a ring he kept from college and thought it would be sentimental to give me a band he’d forgotten an old girlfriend gave to him. I’ve dated guys who ‘didn’t get the point of diamonds’ but were head over heels for CZ, thought that faux was fabulous even upon turning my neck an interesting tint of orange. I had earrings that weighed as heavy on my lobes as ill-fated romances on my heart. There were whimsical charms, which were fun in the beginning, but like the rest of these pieces had about the same endurance as the relationships they represented.

And, so I decided to get the goods for myself. I started a while before “the self-purchaser” had become a catch phrase for women who no longer waited for their significant others or loved ones to buy them jewelry but decided they would do it themselves. This demographic, made up of confident woman who know their taste, are aware of what they can and can’t pull off and the pieces that work with their lifestyle, has been increasing in number and I for one, am quite happy to see it and share the high.

For years, women were okay with buying designer fashion, handbags and shoes but were conditioned to feel guilty about purchasing jewelry. Like Mae West, they had believed that it should be a gift from a man.

I was once one of these women and would plunk down my credit card for Prada handbags and boots, Loro Piana cashmere sweaters and Ann Demeulemeester clothes, (to mention just a few of my fashion favs and vices–much of which took me longer to pay then some of the jewelry I own)  A Milanese ex-boyfriend, with a fear of diamonds (or anything else that “is forever”)  had an eye for well-made outerwear and bought me  leather jackets in all styles and lengths but froze anytime we went near a jewelry store.

After clearing out my closets, and my past from pieces and relationships that did not work for me, I learned that it might be easier to find a right hand ring than the right man. (although I am still hoping for one of those too)

My advice: You don’t need another black dress from Barney’s, four-inch heel Blahnik boots, or this year’s Balenciaga bag. Jewelry offers longevity and if you choose wisely, will flatter your best qualities.

And while it’s nice to have a guy around, you definitely can make yourself feel worthy of a little shimmer and shine!

Some suggestions for a few gems you might want to buy for yourself: Moritz Glik’s sapphire and diamond earrings, Megan Thorne’s three-dimensional lacy earrings, Todd Reed’s rose and polished rough cut diamond rings, John Apel’s rose cut diamond key pendants, Emily Keifer’s bypass rose cut diamond ring, Cathy Waterman’s stained glass pattern earrings and Temple St Clair’s moonstone and 18K gold locket.

Megan Thorne

Todd Reed

Cathy Waterman

Emily Keifer

Temple St. Clair

Earthy Delights

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Cathy Waterman

Yesterday, I was driving up the Palisades Parkway where the leaves were ablaze with the colors of fall. I’d been working inside quite often since September and I was relieved I hadn’t missed it. I was with my stepfather and we reminisced about how my mother loved taking this ride. She’d call me every year to join her, when she was still alive. We were both in awe of this wonder of nature–the leaves changing to rich olivine, golden ochre and my favorites, paprika and persimmon, berry and crimson reds.

We also were impressed that every few years or so, fashion designers kept trying to work these autumnal hues into their collections. At the time, my mother was a VP for an established ready-to-wear company and I was a fashion stylist and editor for woman’s magazines. There were the inspirations of Perry Ellis, Anne Klein and Ralph Lauren and other well-known houses who would cleverly mix these vibrant hues of the majestic trees. Problem was that if woman tried to combine these colors –we started to look exactly–like a tree.

Even if you’d choose, say, a brown background with a bit of tonal ochre or olivine thrown in a shawl or a sweater, even if you selected a silk scarf in a fabulous print or a tweed with just flecks of these shades, you were not making a fashion statement. No. You wound up looking like the landscape driving to upstate New York, Pennsylvania, Maine or Vermont. Take your pick.
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I remember quite clearly, one Perry Ellis sweater both my mother and I had to own in the ’80s. It was a wool tweed with a peplum waist and small puffed sleeves in the most well thought out tiny flecks of color I’d ever seen. It looks simply gorgeous on the hanger, on the 50% off rack at Bergdorf’s and in our closets for years. Neither one of us were willing to part with it until my mother had a paint job and I moved apartments. And, so we went on to wear basic black and took in autumn’s vivid palette during long car rides, in between conversations and laughs at our fashion faux pas.

What does this have to do with jewelry? I realized yesterday that I have been wearing those same autumnal hues for years in gemstones and I’ve never  looked like the leaf it might be set into or the branch that might wind around it. Jewelry is forgiving that way. The inherent beauty and effects of nature make for a variety of easy to wear and versatile styles in pendants, earrings and rings.

Currently, when rough and raw diamonds are so prevalent as are rose cut sapphires, and a range of quartz colors as well as strong tones such as madeira citrine, hessonite garnet, spinel, rhodolite garnet and a host of geodes and minerals, this is the season to find a tone that suits your complexion or mix and match and have fun playing with all these deep, rustic colors. For the best in these looks, check out Mallary Marks for her brilliant color mixing in faceted and briolette stones, Cathy Waterman for her new use of rough diamonds with her signature delicate and feminine inspired motifs, Todd Reed for his artful mixing and pioneering the way for rough and raw cuts in diamonds, Vibes for her unbridled creativity in her natural and magical collection using rough and rose cut diamonds, Megan Thorne for her new addition of rose cut sapphires in tints that range from greens to burnt oranges and Marie-Helene de Taillac for her simple settings that allow her mesmerizing gemstones to take your breath away, much like the change of seasons, itself.

Todd Reed

Mallary Marks

Vibes

That ’70s Look

Miguel Ases

The thing about Retro Fashion is that the people for whom it’s being targeted are those that are too young to remember what it looked like the first time around or should I say, what we looked like IN IT the first time around.

After recently shopping what’s in store for fall 2010 and catching some of the US and European fashion shows (spring 2011) I noticed that the ’70s have strode down the runways and into the trends, clogs and all. Not sure about you, but I have photos of myself from this decade, which I’ve kept hidden in the deep recesses of photo boxes rather than displayed in albums. Why? Aside from the flash bouncing off my braces, this might have been the most unflattering time in fashion history. Think hot pants and billowing kaftan, shiny polyester print shirts and you’ll get the picture. I was 10 when the decade was ushered in by mini/maxi skirts and due to my mother’s (an ex runway model and VP for a ready-to-wear company) passion for clothes,  I became a mini fashion victim, sporting every trend sent down the catwalk during those years.

We shopped at Bloomingdale’s and boutiques throughout the city where I got wide legged pants, Huka Poo print tops, Faded Glory jeans (with embroidery, studs and grommets) and then headed to Greenwich Village to find authentic peasant tops, dangling ethnic earrings, poison rings and pea coats. At the small strip mall in our suburban hometown, we found mood rings, long beads and magnifying glass pendants. I learned how to iron my hair and wrap it around my head to create the middle parted mane that Ali McGraw wore in Love Story and then had it chopped into a Jane Fonda/Klute shag.  I then set it free into a sort of Carol King, circa Tapestry frizz fest, until  I was  feathered like Farrah Fawcett and everyone else I knew. There were velvet jackets, high ribbed turtlenecks and chunky sweaters.

Later there was Lurex, although these days, I think we just call it “shot with metallic thread” — so much more sophisticated than the associations of men who hustled  me into a Saturday Night Fever haze of discos and synthetic fabric dresses that kind of stuck to me by the end of the evening.

My 14-year-old niece, Sammie is loving this look the way I did back then because, well, she is the same age as I was when I wore many of the same things.  Plus, she’s beautiful and has enough personal style to pull it off.  “I share the  ’70s shots of me with her and she examines them like a photo editor for a Fall Issue magazine spread.

“Here’s where you went wrong, you took the look too literally. And, you didn’t mix the proportions. When it’s wide on bottom, it needs to be skinny on top and visa versa.”

“Good advice” I tell her and shove the pictures back into the box.

As far as the more recent ’70s-inspired looks, I do like what certain designers have done with the peasant shirt and tunic–more minimal,  not overly billowy but elegantly loose and feminine and I would definitely incorporate one or two of these into my wardrobe. Same for the “metallic shot sweaters and scarves, ” but the rest I will leave to my niece and the  models on Marc Jacob’s runway . The bohemian in me cries out for some way of looking chic without looking vintage myself.

So, I’ll mix in one piece of clothing and accessorize  with the right jewelry–pieces that will work with the feeling, are inspired by the time period but transcend the trends and can be worn for years. . Fine jewelry designers have renewed and contemporized the mixed bag of looks that were the highlights of my youth:  Victorian-inspired chokers and poison rings by Leslie Greene and Sydney Evan, large stone rings by Jamie Joseph, long pendants by Irene Neuwirth and Moritz Glik, strands of beads and modern day variations on the friendship bracelet by Lena Skadegard and crochet style dangling earring by Miguel Ases.

Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2011 Runway show

Irene Neuwirth

Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2010

Lena Skadegard

Jamie joseph

Moritz Glik

Sydney Evan

Back in Black

 

Scott Mikolay

 

There was a time when I lived in black, from lingerie to every piece of clothing, handbag and footwear I owned, with a few white shirts thrown in. It seemed to be necessary for a Manhattanite who was also a fashion editor and lived in Greenwich Village. It was the easiest way to look stylish and navigate an urban lifestyle, from riding the subway in the morning to getting through a day at the office–and with a quick switch of jewelry and accessories–going to a work-related cocktail party or out on a dinner date, without having time to going home to change .

My mom, a VP for a ready-to-wear company wore Donna Karan and Calvin Klein and neither of us ever believed that brown or any other color would be “the new black”. We did, however, believe in a little sparkle to brighten up our face. My mom wore antique diamond and gemstone stick pins on her lapels and one simple mine-cut station necklace or bolder Robert Lee Morris pieces. I adorned myself in flat-cut garnet Georgian or amethyst and moonstone Victorian earrings as I found them unique and also had two pairs of Ted Muehling simple drops in colored inverted teardrop shaped stones.

When I turned 40, my grandmother, who only dressed in “happy” colors said, “you are just like your mother” and dropped such subtle hints as “black makes you look older. Try some prettier tones in a scarf or a cardigan.”

And then, before I went out with some new guy, she would add: “men like women who are feminine and wear softer, appealing colors. They won’t date women who look like they are going to mug them.”

When I realized I had started channeling Morticia rather than Holly GoLightly , I lightened up my almost black hair and also my wardrobe, wearing such ‘colors’ as shades of grey, stone, brown, and ecru. I also changed from being a steely platinum girl to adding in pink and yellow gold and gemstones in shades of pink and lavender sapphire or tourmalines, making my grandmother proud.

And now, all of a sudden, I am back in all black: black diamonds, blackened metal, lava and ebony beads, and onyx. I not only have versions of the LBD but now the LBS (Little black stud), the LBN (Long black necklace) and LBBs(layered black bracelets). This trend started slowly and then swept through the jewelry industry the way Donna Karan’s matte jersey fabrics took over fashion twenty-five years ago.

Black might be the only black–and it’s beautiful in many of the new designer pieces, but when it’s combined or layered with ‘happy’ colors it will set off your outfit more distinctively and brighten up your face as well as your day. Try mixing in some deeper reds in rubies or spinel such as in Scott Mikolay’s station chain and pendant necklace,, Studio Waterfall’s rose cut muted sapphires and Arman’s green tourmaline and blue sapphires and high karat gold to add life to your darkened metals. Also fancy colored sapphire and other gemstones offer a contrast to ebony beads or cuffs and stack bracelets at Padma. You can wear your black diamonds, mixed with yellow or pink gold and white pave setting. The yellow gold and black diamond chains at Sethi Couture, and white diamond centers stone with black diamond petals for floral studs at John Apel are both versatile additions to your jewelry wardrobes. Yellow sapphires and yellow gold chain adds highlights to a blackened silver and black diamond crescent moon at Emily Keifer.  And just FYI–all black jewelry doesn’t have the same effect as clothes: it unfortunately doesn’t make you look thinner…I tested it.

 


Studio Waterfall

 

 


Emily Keifer

 

 


Padma

 

 

Arman

 

 


John Apel

 

New School

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Moritz Glik

A few weeks ago, when I was with a friend whose daughter was starting kindergarten, I was reminded that I’ve always loved “back to school shopping.” While we were checking off  her list — friendship bracelets, pink tops, a Hello Kitty lunch box and colorful composition books–it evoked  the  smell of freshly sharpened pencils, the newness of the change of seasons, and that, during this time of year, I  still search out the perfect pieces of jewelry, sweaters, handbags and even notebooks.  For as long as I can remember, I’ve anticipated the first nip in the fall air so I can wear my brand new clothes and accessories.

My niece, who just started high school called before Labor Day and excitedly described her shopping spree– jeggings, skinny cargo pants and ultra long cardigans and her wood bead and charm bracelets that “go all the way up her arm”   Her enthusiasm  had me waxing nostalgic for my own youth: the dual function of Angora sweaters: super soft and pretty in pale colors  (minus the  little fluff balls that would fly around and tickle my nose), they also always made my breasts look way larger and proved to be a real boy magnet in junior high.

While I’ve switched from Angora to cashmere which reveals my true B cup, many of the trends I owned back then return a big way this season, like the revival of clogs, which I had in every color. My jewelry styles of choice were large stone rings (moonstone– a favorite), long magnifying glass pendants and ethnic cuff bracelets. Similar pieces have become the popular looks to work with the more covered up styles of fall/winter 2010 fashion. Happily this gives jewelry lovers like me more options than usual to wear with long sleeves, higher necks and sweaters.

-Pendants on ultra long chains can be draped over a belted cashmere tunic or on a lighter weight  turtleneck layered under a chunkier long cardigan or three-quarter length sweater coat worn open.  Some great finds in this look– Moritz Glik’s sapphire crystal with blackened silver overlay and diamonds, Dawes Design’s rock crystal pendants that have the look of a magnifying glass, Melissa Joy Manning’s amulet style drops in every gem you can think of, Leslie Greene’s irregular cuts stones in rutilated quartz, Megan Thorne’s cabochons with delicate swirls of fabric like trim and Laurie Kaiser’s drusy pieces sprouting with floral blooms. All of these longer pendants work to add femininity or personalize this season’s menswear looks as well.

-Wide bracelets in every material imaginable also work with fall fashion: wrap a leather style over the wrist of any long sleeve, especially those that have a hint of sparkle such as Mizuki’s black leather and black diamond wrapped leather cuffs or Emily Armenta’s brown leather with gemstones and diamond motifs. There is also a return of bakelite and some of the best of these looks come from Mark Davis when accented by insets of round gold bezels with tiny colored faceted stones. Bochic also does a great job with Bakelite with blackened silver and diamonds and Monique Pean’s buffalo horn provides another alternative to the more precious materials usually associated with fine jewelry.

-This is also the year to pull out those hand me down Brooches that have been sitting in your jewelry box. Or go for an antique look: Bernard Nacht & Company has some beautiful pieces from Victorian through Art Nouveau and Art Deco to attach to a wide ribbon and wear tied around your wrist to create your own wrap around bracelet style or try the same brooch on a long piece of suede to create a one of a kind belt. You can also fasten the larger styles to a cashmere shawl or scatter a mix smaller versions on the top left or right hand side of a cardigan or simple dress or on the pocket of a suit jacket. Anywhere but the expected lapel.

-Statement rings can definitely be worn year round and in fall, its a perfect time to go with rough or refined stones. Moonstone in blue or rainbow cabochons  look great in simple and more detailed styling such as Pippa Small’s hand cut versions or Temple St. Clair’s bold yet elegant looks. Suzanne Kalan’s confetti of stones is also a great style when searching for a larger stand out ring and Cathy Waterman’s gemstone styles are natural beauties in refined settings but hold their own when worn with many of this fall’s fashions.

So as you feel the first crisp breeze of fall  brush  your bare skin, throw on a sweater and head to your favorite jewelry store to invest in some old school turned new school designs.

Cathy Waterman

Armenta

Suzanne Kalan

Mark Davis

Pippa Small

Megan Thorne

Rough Cuts

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Todd Reed red diamond ring in 18K gold and paladium with rough and brilliant cut accent diamonds

Part Three of Three Part Blog:

Like most young girls I was attracted to all things sparkly: rhinestones, crystal beads and anything glitzy that I could try on and finagle my mother into buying me at the Five and Dime. I was swathed in more bling than found on the red carpet, but back then, I was more about Princess Barbie then Lady Gaga.

Then sometime during my late high school years and into college, while other girls in my class were wearing one carat studs in each ear and sizing up potential engagement rings, I rebelled against the colorless perfection of diamonds. I didn’t own or have desire for a classic solitaire necklace, a tennis bracelet or anything else that might have been considered the least bit conventional.

I also wrote poetry, while chain-smoking until the wee hours of the morning, went out dancing in cropped tops and belly chains (my favorite piece of jewelry at the time) and, just for fun–took a summer course in existential philosophy– if that helps put those years into better context.

I went from my younger days of learning the words to “Diamonds are a Girls Best Friend,” to walking around spouting the famous line that Audrey Hepburn brilliantly delivers as Holly Go Lightly in Breakfast at Tiffany’s: ” Personally, I think it’d be tacky to wear diamonds before I’m forty.” Back then, I thought forty was old (shoot me now) and could no more afford them then the Holly Go Lightly character.

In my late 20s, I stopped penning poetry (a relief for friends and writing groups who had to sit through my “readings”) and began writing about style fashion and jewelry And, although I started to learn about the four C’s, I still wasn’t a fan of the perfect D-flawless. Instead, I fell for authentic antique English jewelry from Elizabethan through Edwardian eras and most prominently Georgian. I loved  the imperfections of the mine , table, cushion and rose cuts diamonds with their natural flaws that give them character and presence. I was also mesmerized by the effect of briolettes, reflecting and refracting the light like little chandeliers.

When I finally did hit my forties, Breakfast at Tiffany’s continued to remain one of my favorite films. And, I couldn’t be happier that the old cuts of diamonds I’d been wearing in period pieces were being re-fashioned in India for a modern generation of women. Add to this, flat cuts and natural colored diamonds and pioneer Todd Reed’s rough and raw cuts in cubes and colors of champagne, gray, brown, red, cognac and pink and I was in heaven. I could wear contemporary diamonds and still possess my own individual style. As these looks grew in popularity, they marked a turning point for women who want jewelry that is anything but basic. Since then, almost every designer I know has some version of these cuts in their collection from pendants to bridal rings as well as various diamond beads:  A few of the best: Coomi, Me & Ro, Anaconda, Ruff & Cut and Just Jules.

More recently, black diamonds just like the LBD  have come to offer women a versatile staple for their jewelry wardrobe. These are being shown in everything from beads to brilliant and rose cuts and  delicate pave. (check out Catherine Angiel and Phillips Frankel)

I finally own a version of the tennis bracelet: an ultra thin black diamond one, which I mix and match with my colored diamond bangles, all from Sethi Couture and my small pave looks on leather and thin chain and silk cording from Mizuki and Zoe Chicco. I also have a favorite modern stud: black rose cuts, outlined by micro pave. And, my all time loves: my large gray diamond ring and floral motif ring with petals made from tonal rough cuts by Todd Reed.

Like all relationships, mine with diamonds changed over time. I got older and wiser. They got more interesting. Perhaps we have grown together. I will always appreciate their natural beautiful, personality and their flaws.

Coomi Black Diamond cluster rose cut studs with white diamonds

Todd Reed Floral rough cut diamond ring

Manak Jewels Pink Diamond beads

Me & Ro Rose cut Earrings

Anaconda rose cut pear shape studs

Sofia Kaman for Kamofie Designs black dia rose cut pear shaped pendant

Phillips Frankel black diamond bracelet