BJEWELED

your link to what every woman should know about the finer points in life, love and expressing yourself with jewelry

Posts Tagged ‘Diamonds’

New School

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Moritz Glik

A few weeks ago, when I was with a friend whose daughter was starting kindergarten, I was reminded that I’ve always loved “back to school shopping.” While we were checking off  her list — friendship bracelets, pink tops, a Hello Kitty lunch box and colorful composition books–it evoked  the  smell of freshly sharpened pencils, the newness of the change of seasons, and that, during this time of year, I  still search out the perfect pieces of jewelry, sweaters, handbags and even notebooks.  For as long as I can remember, I’ve anticipated the first nip in the fall air so I can wear my brand new clothes and accessories.

My niece, who just started high school called before Labor Day and excitedly described her shopping spree– jeggings, skinny cargo pants and ultra long cardigans and her wood bead and charm bracelets that “go all the way up her arm”   Her enthusiasm  had me waxing nostalgic for my own youth: the dual function of Angora sweaters: super soft and pretty in pale colors  (minus the  little fluff balls that would fly around and tickle my nose), they also always made my breasts look way larger and proved to be a real boy magnet in junior high.

While I’ve switched from Angora to cashmere which reveals my true B cup, many of the trends I owned back then return a big way this season, like the revival of clogs, which I had in every color. My jewelry styles of choice were large stone rings (moonstone– a favorite), long magnifying glass pendants and ethnic cuff bracelets. Similar pieces have become the popular looks to work with the more covered up styles of fall/winter 2010 fashion. Happily this gives jewelry lovers like me more options than usual to wear with long sleeves, higher necks and sweaters.

-Pendants on ultra long chains can be draped over a belted cashmere tunic or on a lighter weight  turtleneck layered under a chunkier long cardigan or three-quarter length sweater coat worn open.  Some great finds in this look– Moritz Glik’s sapphire crystal with blackened silver overlay and diamonds, Dawes Design’s rock crystal pendants that have the look of a magnifying glass, Melissa Joy Manning’s amulet style drops in every gem you can think of, Leslie Greene’s irregular cuts stones in rutilated quartz, Megan Thorne’s cabochons with delicate swirls of fabric like trim and Laurie Kaiser’s drusy pieces sprouting with floral blooms. All of these longer pendants work to add femininity or personalize this season’s menswear looks as well.

-Wide bracelets in every material imaginable also work with fall fashion: wrap a leather style over the wrist of any long sleeve, especially those that have a hint of sparkle such as Mizuki’s black leather and black diamond wrapped leather cuffs or Emily Armenta’s brown leather with gemstones and diamond motifs. There is also a return of bakelite and some of the best of these looks come from Mark Davis when accented by insets of round gold bezels with tiny colored faceted stones. Bochic also does a great job with Bakelite with blackened silver and diamonds and Monique Pean’s buffalo horn provides another alternative to the more precious materials usually associated with fine jewelry.

-This is also the year to pull out those hand me down Brooches that have been sitting in your jewelry box. Or go for an antique look: Bernard Nacht & Company has some beautiful pieces from Victorian through Art Nouveau and Art Deco to attach to a wide ribbon and wear tied around your wrist to create your own wrap around bracelet style or try the same brooch on a long piece of suede to create a one of a kind belt. You can also fasten the larger styles to a cashmere shawl or scatter a mix smaller versions on the top left or right hand side of a cardigan or simple dress or on the pocket of a suit jacket. Anywhere but the expected lapel.

-Statement rings can definitely be worn year round and in fall, its a perfect time to go with rough or refined stones. Moonstone in blue or rainbow cabochons  look great in simple and more detailed styling such as Pippa Small’s hand cut versions or Temple St. Clair’s bold yet elegant looks. Suzanne Kalan’s confetti of stones is also a great style when searching for a larger stand out ring and Cathy Waterman’s gemstone styles are natural beauties in refined settings but hold their own when worn with many of this fall’s fashions.

So as you feel the first crisp breeze of fall  brush  your bare skin, throw on a sweater and head to your favorite jewelry store to invest in some old school turned new school designs.

Cathy Waterman

Armenta

Suzanne Kalan

Mark Davis

Pippa Small

Megan Thorne

Coveting Continuity

Alberian & Aulde

I am a creature of habit: I’ve been getting my hair cut by the same person for 17 years, and from various photos, I notice the actual style hasn’t changed for the same amount of time. I keep my doctors till they retire, some boyfriends, long past our expiration date, and have loved all shades of purple since I was six. I have long time friendships, perhaps older than some of my new friend’s ages and I don’t give up on family easily.  But I wouldn’t describe this as being set in my ways or myself as someone who can not move forward– I prefer to think of it more of an appreciation of continuity, rather than an aversion to change.

So when I see that certain symbols in jewelry are continuous in their lifespan, sometimes going out and coming back into style and other times taking on different meanings, it makes me happy, especially if they represent longevity and enduring friendship or love. I am not talking about the smiley face or any other symbols that have to do with the seventies, a particular time period in which my mother was rebelling and borrowed my jewelry and….bell bottom jeans…and looked better in them than me.

I get excited when jewelry has sentiment and significance attached to it–a story to be told –and I usually prefer if it’s not spelled out in words but shows up more discretely in a motif or a silhouette. And, I appreciate it even more when the piece is anything but basic, representing history yet evoking the original sensibility of the designer creating it.

The circle, for example has been an endless source of inspiration for jewelry designers, showing up in more variations than I can count, reflecting permanence and a symbol that cannot be broken

One of my personal favorites, which I’ve kept in my jewelry wardrobe but continues to sell and should not be missed is Alberian & Aulde’s delicate 3-D Gaia pendant with vitreous glass enameling and tiny diamonds and sapphires. Each time I wear it, I discover another detail about it, some element that I didn’t notice the first time, that surprises and delights me, much like the way I’d like relationships to go and grow.

When I am feeling a bit more nostalgic, I reach for John Apel’s pendant that reminds me of an antique eternity band like the one  my dad gave my mom, and that I have worn for years. It’s a geometric pattern of marquis and round shaped rose cut diamonds in platinum and is understated and discrete in its beauty.

In the last year, I started being attracted to Celtic-inspired infinity motifs again. The first time one was ever purchased for me was by an Irish lad from Dublin, who I was seeing in my late ’20s and who explained that “it stood for our eternal love,” which all would have been grand, if he wasn’t engaged to someone else. For years I shelved the pendant– and that motif–not only because of my personal experience (although that weighed heavily) but because many of the interpretations weren’t very interesting to the fine jewelry lover, when re-created in oxidized Mexican silver.

But, last September, I saw Damiani’s Victorian version, an entwined knot of pavé diamonds, made with the Italian traditional of craftsmanship–and fell for this newer translation, sort of in the way I moved on from soulful lilts to the curled vowels of a Milanese man.

True to my heart, my feminine tastes and my affinity for all things enduring, I found Penny Preville’s diamond Infinity pendant makes a great self purchase item (for me), a meaningful gift for friends, and a thoughtful bridal party present.

Change is always good if it moves you forward, but it’s always nice to find comfort in the things around you that continue to endure.

All original content is ©Beth Bernstein 2010. No words may be reproduced without permission from the copyright holder.

©2010B-Jeweled. All Rights Reserved.

Penny Preville

The Long and Short of It

moritz glik

amali

I remember desperately wanting my ears pierced. In the mornings before 3rd grade (I was 8 at the time), I’d scotch tape cutouts of stars, moons and flowers to my lobes.

“Your teachers will think you’re crazy, worse yet, they will think that I am letting you out of the house like this,” my mom had said.

To which my reply was “then let me get my ears pierced.” I think I stomped my foot for emphasis. The verdict: not happening until I was 14. It was a number she’d arbitrarily come up with and for me seemed like a lifetime.

So I did what any 8 year old would do, I went over her head to her mom, my grandmother. She took one look at the scotch tape creations and promptly took me to a jewelry store near where she lived in Brooklyn. I almost changed my mind and passed out when I saw the “gun” but I made it through. Then, I waited six weeks with the surgical steel studs till I could wear the little twisted wire 18K gold hoops my grandmother bought for me. My mom felt manipulated and decided to scare me into listening to her in the future with talk about infections and other really dramatic stuff that never happened.

By the time high school rolled around, I wanted an asymmetrical look and let some guy pierce one more hole in my right ear and two more in my left with ice and a sewing needle. My mom just rolled her eyes and cautioned me never to wear anything too heavy because that would cause the earlobes to droop and the holes to stretch as I got older. Sounded awful and left more of an impression than the earlier warnings.

But throughout my twenties and thirties, which were in the ’80s and ’90s I was into style over function (not realizing there was a way to have both) and I wore everything from large dangling ethnic styles to over sized gold hoops. But once a chandelier earring got caught on a crochet sweater, I decided to retire the longer, heavier looks for delicate double drops and ultra small pendant earrings, mostly antique styles that were lighter in weight. I began meeting women who went through the ordeal of getting their piercings sewed up and re-pierced again and also noticed the dreaded droop. I was not going to let a fashionable pair of earrings take down my lobes.

Then in 2002, I met Brazilian born designer Moritz Glik, who, in addition to his sophisticated yet playful collection of floating diamond jewelry set between sapphire crystals, creates featherweight longer and chandelier style earrings that literally feel like you are not wearing anything, very contemporary in feeling yet with undertones of antique style and technique. A little over a year ago, I met Sara Freedenfeld who spins gold into a fluid collection of fabric inspired designs for her Amali collection, (sentimentally named after her grandmother). She weaves every piece out of chain herself and her longer looks are also airy and lightweight.

Both designers have allowed me to expand my earring collection, at a time when longer, more fluid earrings with movement are being shown everywhere from runway to red carpet.

In time, gravity would have it’s pull on my ears like it’s having on my upper arms and gluts but I am going to hold out in style until then.

All original content is ©Beth Bernstein 2010. No words may be reproduced with out permission from the copyright holder.
All Rights Reserved.

Jingle Jangle-wearing bangles

marian maurer

I’m embracing the warm days of spring, shedding my layers of turtlenecks, cardigans, cashmere sweater coats and I can’t wait to pile on one of my favorite jewelry looks: a stack of mixed up bangles: textured, gemstones, blackened silver and tri-tones of pink, yellow and white metal with colored and white diamond accents .

But wait, are those my arms that are that are jingly or my bracelets? Seems no matter how many days you work out at the gym, something inexplicable happens to your upper arms in winter.

“Don’t pretend you don’t get it, you’ve been coming here too long,” says Carl, my chisel instructor at Crunch in front of the entire class. You used 5 lb weights all winter and got lazy.” He hands me 10 lbs and I can hardly hold them, no less lift them over my head. I opt for the 71/2’s and get to work.

In embracing spring, I can also accept the fact that parts of my body will never be the same, but when someone is embracing me, I want them to feel a more toned version. And when I go sleeveless, the only part of my arms I want jangling are the piles of bangles that are accessorizing them.

For those of you who feel the same, I recommend a mix of SETHI COUTURE‘s thin natural colored diamond bangles, JUST JULES‘ and MARIAN MAURER‘s varying textures and styles, STEPHANIE ALBERTSON‘s rose cut diamond and colored stone bezel set versions and ARMENTA‘s and ERICA MOLINARI‘s and LAUREN WOLF‘s blackened silver with pops of gold and white diamonds.

And for getting your arms ready for the sleeveless days of summer, Carl’s triceps exercises include three sets of 15 -20 skull crushers, kickbacks and dips.

All original content is ©Beth Bernstein 2010. No words may be reproduced with out permission from the copyright holder.
©2010B-Jeweled. All Rights Reserved.