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October 8, 2010

Back in Black

 

Scott Mikolay

 

There was a time when I lived in black, from lingerie to every piece of clothing, handbag and footwear I owned, with a few white shirts thrown in. It seemed to be necessary for a Manhattanite who was also a fashion editor and lived in Greenwich Village. It was the easiest way to look stylish and navigate an urban lifestyle, from riding the subway in the morning to getting through a day at the office–and with a quick switch of jewelry and accessories–going to a work-related cocktail party or out on a dinner date, without having time to going home to change .

My mom, a VP for a ready-to-wear company wore Donna Karan and Calvin Klein and neither of us ever believed that brown or any other color would be “the new black”. We did, however, believe in a little sparkle to brighten up our face. My mom wore antique diamond and gemstone stick pins on her lapels and one simple mine-cut station necklace or bolder Robert Lee Morris pieces. I adorned myself in flat-cut garnet Georgian or amethyst and moonstone Victorian earrings as I found them unique and also had two pairs of Ted Muehling simple drops in colored inverted teardrop shaped stones.

When I turned 40, my grandmother, who only dressed in “happy” colors said, “you are just like your mother” and dropped such subtle hints as “black makes you look older. Try some prettier tones in a scarf or a cardigan.”

And then, before I went out with some new guy, she would add: “men like women who are feminine and wear softer, appealing colors. They won’t date women who look like they are going to mug them.”

When I realized I had started channeling Morticia rather than Holly GoLightly , I lightened up my almost black hair and also my wardrobe, wearing such ‘colors’ as shades of grey, stone, brown, and ecru. I also changed from being a steely platinum girl to adding in pink and yellow gold and gemstones in shades of pink and lavender sapphire or tourmalines, making my grandmother proud.

And now, all of a sudden, I am back in all black: black diamonds, blackened metal, lava and ebony beads, and onyx. I not only have versions of the LBD but now the LBS (Little black stud), the LBN (Long black necklace) and LBBs(layered black bracelets). This trend started slowly and then swept through the jewelry industry the way Donna Karan’s matte jersey fabrics took over fashion twenty-five years ago.

Black might be the only black–and it’s beautiful in many of the new designer pieces, but when it’s combined or layered with ‘happy’ colors it will set off your outfit more distinctively and brighten up your face as well as your day. Try mixing in some deeper reds in rubies or spinel such as in Scott Mikolay’s station chain and pendant necklace,, Studio Waterfall’s rose cut muted sapphires and Arman’s green tourmaline and blue sapphires and high karat gold to add life to your darkened metals. Also fancy colored sapphire and other gemstones offer a contrast to ebony beads or cuffs and stack bracelets at Padma. You can wear your black diamonds, mixed with yellow or pink gold and white pave setting. The yellow gold and black diamond chains at Sethi Couture, and white diamond centers stone with black diamond petals for floral studs at John Apel are both versatile additions to your jewelry wardrobes. Yellow sapphires and yellow gold chain adds highlights to a blackened silver and black diamond crescent moon at Emily Keifer.  And just FYI–all black jewelry doesn’t have the same effect as clothes: it unfortunately doesn’t make you look thinner…I tested it.

 


Studio Waterfall

 

 


Emily Keifer

 

 


Padma

 

 

Arman

 

 


John Apel

 

September 18, 2010

New School

Moritz Glik

A few weeks ago, when I was with a friend whose daughter was starting kindergarten, I was reminded that I’ve always loved “back to school shopping.” While we were checking off  her list — friendship bracelets, pink tops, a Hello Kitty lunch box and colorful composition books–it evoked  the  smell of freshly sharpened pencils, the newness of the change of seasons, and that, during this time of year, I  still search out the perfect pieces of jewelry, sweaters, handbags and even notebooks.  For as long as I can remember, I’ve anticipated the first nip in the fall air so I can wear my brand new clothes and accessories.

My niece, who just started high school called before Labor Day and excitedly described her shopping spree– jeggings, skinny cargo pants and ultra long cardigans and her wood bead and charm bracelets that “go all the way up her arm”   Her enthusiasm  had me waxing nostalgic for my own youth: the dual function of Angora sweaters: super soft and pretty in pale colors  (minus the  little fluff balls that would fly around and tickle my nose), they also always made my breasts look way larger and proved to be a real boy magnet in junior high.

While I’ve switched from Angora to cashmere which reveals my true B cup, many of the trends I owned back then return a big way this season, like the revival of clogs, which I had in every color. My jewelry styles of choice were large stone rings (moonstone– a favorite), long magnifying glass pendants and ethnic cuff bracelets. Similar pieces have become the popular looks to work with the more covered up styles of fall/winter 2010 fashion. Happily this gives jewelry lovers like me more options than usual to wear with long sleeves, higher necks and sweaters.

-Pendants on ultra long chains can be draped over a belted cashmere tunic or on a lighter weight  turtleneck layered under a chunkier long cardigan or three-quarter length sweater coat worn open.  Some great finds in this look– Moritz Glik’s sapphire crystal with blackened silver overlay and diamonds, Dawes Design’s rock crystal pendants that have the look of a magnifying glass, Melissa Joy Manning’s amulet style drops in every gem you can think of, Leslie Greene’s irregular cuts stones in rutilated quartz, Megan Thorne’s cabochons with delicate swirls of fabric like trim and Laurie Kaiser’s drusy pieces sprouting with floral blooms. All of these longer pendants work to add femininity or personalize this season’s menswear looks as well.

-Wide bracelets in every material imaginable also work with fall fashion: wrap a leather style over the wrist of any long sleeve, especially those that have a hint of sparkle such as Mizuki’s black leather and black diamond wrapped leather cuffs or Emily Armenta’s brown leather with gemstones and diamond motifs. There is also a return of bakelite and some of the best of these looks come from Mark Davis when accented by insets of round gold bezels with tiny colored faceted stones. Bochic also does a great job with Bakelite with blackened silver and diamonds and Monique Pean’s buffalo horn provides another alternative to the more precious materials usually associated with fine jewelry.

-This is also the year to pull out those hand me down Brooches that have been sitting in your jewelry box. Or go for an antique look: Bernard Nacht & Company has some beautiful pieces from Victorian through Art Nouveau and Art Deco to attach to a wide ribbon and wear tied around your wrist to create your own wrap around bracelet style or try the same brooch on a long piece of suede to create a one of a kind belt. You can also fasten the larger styles to a cashmere shawl or scatter a mix smaller versions on the top left or right hand side of a cardigan or simple dress or on the pocket of a suit jacket. Anywhere but the expected lapel.

-Statement rings can definitely be worn year round and in fall, its a perfect time to go with rough or refined stones. Moonstone in blue or rainbow cabochons  look great in simple and more detailed styling such as Pippa Small’s hand cut versions or Temple St. Clair’s bold yet elegant looks. Suzanne Kalan’s confetti of stones is also a great style when searching for a larger stand out ring and Cathy Waterman’s gemstone styles are natural beauties in refined settings but hold their own when worn with many of this fall’s fashions.

So as you feel the first crisp breeze of fall  brush  your bare skin, throw on a sweater and head to your favorite jewelry store to invest in some old school turned new school designs.

Cathy Waterman

Armenta

Suzanne Kalan

Mark Davis

Pippa Small

Megan Thorne

September 4, 2010

Rough Cuts

Todd Reed red diamond ring in 18K gold and paladium with rough and brilliant cut accent diamonds

Part Three of Three Part Blog:

Like most young girls I was attracted to all things sparkly: rhinestones, crystal beads and anything glitzy that I could try on and finagle my mother into buying me at the Five and Dime. I was swathed in more bling than found on the red carpet, but back then, I was more about Princess Barbie then Lady Gaga.

Then sometime during my late high school years and into college, while other girls in my class were wearing one carat studs in each ear and sizing up potential engagement rings, I rebelled against the colorless perfection of diamonds. I didn’t own or have desire for a classic solitaire necklace, a tennis bracelet or anything else that might have been considered the least bit conventional.

I also wrote poetry, while chain-smoking until the wee hours of the morning, went out dancing in cropped tops and belly chains (my favorite piece of jewelry at the time) and, just for fun–took a summer course in existential philosophy– if that helps put those years into better context.

I went from my younger days of learning the words to “Diamonds are a Girls Best Friend,” to walking around spouting the famous line that Audrey Hepburn brilliantly delivers as Holly Go Lightly in Breakfast at Tiffany’s: ” Personally, I think it’d be tacky to wear diamonds before I’m forty.” Back then, I thought forty was old (shoot me now) and could no more afford them then the Holly Go Lightly character.

In my late 20s, I stopped penning poetry (a relief for friends and writing groups who had to sit through my “readings”) and began writing about style fashion and jewelry And, although I started to learn about the four C’s, I still wasn’t a fan of the perfect D-flawless. Instead, I fell for authentic antique English jewelry from Elizabethan through Edwardian eras and most prominently Georgian. I loved  the imperfections of the mine , table, cushion and rose cuts diamonds with their natural flaws that give them character and presence. I was also mesmerized by the effect of briolettes, reflecting and refracting the light like little chandeliers.

When I finally did hit my forties, Breakfast at Tiffany’s continued to remain one of my favorite films. And, I couldn’t be happier that the old cuts of diamonds I’d been wearing in period pieces were being re-fashioned in India for a modern generation of women. Add to this, flat cuts and natural colored diamonds and pioneer Todd Reed’s rough and raw cuts in cubes and colors of champagne, gray, brown, red, cognac and pink and I was in heaven. I could wear contemporary diamonds and still possess my own individual style. As these looks grew in popularity, they marked a turning point for women who want jewelry that is anything but basic. Since then, almost every designer I know has some version of these cuts in their collection from pendants to bridal rings as well as various diamond beads:  A few of the best: Coomi, Me & Ro, Anaconda, Ruff & Cut and Just Jules.

More recently, black diamonds just like the LBD  have come to offer women a versatile staple for their jewelry wardrobe. These are being shown in everything from beads to brilliant and rose cuts and  delicate pave. (check out Catherine Angiel and Phillips Frankel)

I finally own a version of the tennis bracelet: an ultra thin black diamond one, which I mix and match with my colored diamond bangles, all from Sethi Couture and my small pave looks on leather and thin chain and silk cording from Mizuki and Zoe Chicco. I also have a favorite modern stud: black rose cuts, outlined by micro pave. And, my all time loves: my large gray diamond ring and floral motif ring with petals made from tonal rough cuts by Todd Reed.

Like all relationships, mine with diamonds changed over time. I got older and wiser. They got more interesting. Perhaps we have grown together. I will always appreciate their natural beautiful, personality and their flaws.

Coomi Black Diamond cluster rose cut studs with white diamonds

Todd Reed Floral rough cut diamond ring

Manak Jewels Pink Diamond beads

Me & Ro Rose cut Earrings

Anaconda rose cut pear shape studs

Sofia Kaman for Kamofie Designs black dia rose cut pear shaped pendant

Phillips Frankel black diamond bracelet

August 25, 2010

Pearl Girls

Vibes

Part two of this week’s three-part blog.

Remember when pearls used to conjure up images of pristine preppies, predictable bridal jewelry and the cultured strands you used to play with in your grandmother’s jewelry box?  Although Coco Chanel did much in her day to totally revitalize and modernize pearls (mixing real and faux, layering multi-strands and adding large gem encrusted Maltese crosses), throughout the 20th century pearls kept returning to their more  tradition roots. Many designers and infamous jewelry houses during this period tried to infuse pearls with an elegance and glamor, succeeding only for short periods of time- mostly when draped around the necks of Jackie O and Grace Kelly.

My own recollections included sitting next to my mom in the mirror and watching her dress up in her Jackie O-style strands.  But, just a few year  later  she was trading them in for love beads, peace sign pendants and woman’s lib.  That was the thing about pearls, there was always a movement or a trend or shift in society that took over and kept pearls in their proper place.

The first time I ever really wore pearls was upon receiving my first bridesmaid’s gift in my twenties of a very basic teardrop shaped fresh water earring, dangling from a sterling silver wire. Not long after, I counted approximately ten similar pairs bestowed upon me for my role in wedding parties–many either in natural or, yes, dyed to match hues — to go with the dress. You remember–the dress–flammable fabrics, fashioned in colors and silhouettes that flattered  no actual woman–but definitely complemented  the decor and table settings of the bride’s venue.

I’m not sure  about your friends and relatives, but most of mine who were getting married (and were gracious enough to have me as a bridesmaid), practiced equality: every body type got the exact same dress silhouette and every face shape and skin tone, the same drop pearl earring.

Later in my early thirties I wore Karl Lagerfeld and Moschino’s high fashion versions of big chunky button pearls and curb chain mixtures that evoked a sort of Haute motorcycle chic.  This look lasted for about 12 minutes for me. My only long-term relationship with pearls was with the tiniest of natural seed pearls chokers, two antique styles from the Edwardian era.

Needless to say, I had no passion for pearls.   And, when I think back, the one piece I could never imagine myself wearing-  a pearl ring.

Then, three years ago I met Danish designer Lene Vibe Dahlgren. The minutes I set my gaze upon her magical 3-D fairytale-like garden motif surrounding a creamy baroque pearl (for her collection, Vibes)  I had to have it. Immediately. Love at first sight. Passion ignited.  Before I even tried it on, I knew that I would wear it on what ever finger it would fit and I purchased it on the spot. I now own three different styles of her rings in lustrous natural shades as well as her enchanting, poetic and sometimes whimsical and one-of-kind baroque South Sea and Keshi pearl pendants with and without rough cut diamonds on both chain and leather cord.

I am also a fan of Nina Basharova’s rough and refined looks of irregularly shaped pearls held by stylized 18K gold versions of barbed wire. Autore’s dazzling sea life and antique motifs elevate pearls to a collectible art form.  There are also designers such as Gabrielle Sanchez who mix various natural pearls in inventive shapes, working long Biwa and Keshi pearls into flowers and cross motifs, and, most recently, the return and update  of Wendy Brigode’s ‘Tin Cup” necklace (the station pearl strand in the film of the same name that graced Renee Russo’s neck and spawned years of imitations). Both of these designers offer contemporary and often sexy alternatives for all women and a welcome, personalized and unbridled approach to wedding jewelry and gifts for your most treasured friends.

Just recently, after many years of  finally vowing to be only  a guest rather than a participant in the bridal  party, I was asked to be witness for a good friend’s second wedding. I wore my own dress and my own Vibes gray pearl and rough diamond earrings. And, I embraced my new and enduring role as a pearl girl (okay, maybe pearl ‘woman’).

autore

Vibes

Gabrielle Sanchez

August 23, 2010

Bringing Home the Gold

Arman

After my last two blogs entries (on my experience with turquoise throughout the years and with spiritual jewelry), I began to mull over how , like everything else in life, certain jewelry is attached, not only to personal memories but to very specific connotations, status and stereotypes. But, in the past 10 or so years, some pioneering and inventive fine jewelry designers have done much to dispel our more conventional and sometimes negative associations with various styles in jewelry.

I’ll be addressing some of these styles in a three-part blog this week:

A few years ago while wearing the seven graduated yellow gold talisman chains (I recently wrote about in Lifting the Spirits), I flew over to Rome to spend time with the guy I was seeing at the time. I was dressed in a black cashmere cardigan, with a hint of black La Perla lace peeking out, black slim pants and Prada ballet slippers. The minute he saw me, he gave me the once over, and bluntly asked– “what happened to your elegant taste? You look like an aging Sicilian woman praying to the saints.”

As a guy, he had no problem with the lace cami, as an Italian, who understood fashion, he got the idea of basic black for traveling, but the overall effect was one that conjured up a look, that, while inspirational for Dolce & Gabbana, left my Milanese-born man confused.

While I thought I looked quite fashionable– and was initially hurt by his statement–I came to understand it. The image I had evoked for him was more of the grieving Sicilian widow, Anna Magnani played in The Rose Tatoo, then the playful, style-conscious Manhattanite he had thought he was dating.

For me, there was also a time that yellow gold conjured up less than high fashion images. Throughout the ’80s, I came to associate it with flashy divas, who danced the night away in glittery lame, accentuated by gaudy accessories that reminded me of shimmering disco balls. I was a white metal girl back then: yellow was all about generic hollow bangles, huge hoops, mesh bibs: the jewelry of women with long red fingernails and big hair: Think the beginning scenes in Working Girl and nocturnal wannabes in stiletto heels, waiting endlessly on line and at clubs such as Area and Odeon and you’ve got the picture. At the time, (if I must admit it) I lived in the Northern part of the Garden State and this look also came to represent everything I never want to be. (read: ‘The real women’ from “Jersey Shore”)

When I started writing about jewelry for magazines in the 90s, designers kept trying to bring back yellow gold and finally, sometime around 2001-2002 there was a major revitalization, no longer a trend trying to lose its bad rep, but a category of jewelry that is here to stay. Whether shown over the past years in symbolic pendants or the ultra fine lace inspired cuffs of Barry Kronen.the high karat, highly textured hand of Gurhan, the fanciful and ornate contrasts of Arman’s gold, highlighted by blackened silver and popped by beautiful gemstones, the artful simplicity of Stephanie Albertson, the sprinkle of sparkle of the bezel set styles of Annie Fensterstock, the intricately detailed work of Jamie Wolf and the delicate stardust hand texture by Yasuko Azuma, there are a plethora of pieces from ancient-inspired to bohemian global: cool, chic and collectible. While I still wear my gold layered, my fashion choices tend toward more pleasing and tonal neutrals of greys, browns and stone colors, except of course when I pop into a Dolce & Gabbana shop, buy black and savor the design duo’s Sicilian roots.

Stay tuned for my next installment on Wednesday on my ‘Un-Bridled’ Passion for Pearls–

Gurhan

Stephanie Albertson

Yasuko Azuma

Annie Fensterstock

August 13, 2010

Lifting the Spirits

ME & RO 18K Gold Medium Ritual Bell Pendant with Indian Diamond. Its sound is said to drive away evil spirits. In the form of a lotus flower, each petal is engraved with one of the symbols of the eight goddess offerings.

The opening of the film Eat, Pray, Love, based on Elizabeth Gilbert’s bestselling book (which I am going to see tonight and which I read when it first came out) started me thinking about my own journey with various cultures and my attempt at being more centered and spiritual, when I realized I was continually trying to ward off bad luck instead of trying to attract good fortune.

There was the time I went for a chakra facial–primarily because there were gems involved, and as an added bonus, one of the seven chakras is your heart, where the facialist placed a rose quartz, which I hoped would help open me up to a new and– shall we say– more balanced romance in my life. While unsure if the stones worked, I definitely felt more relaxed, peaceful and content.  But, realizing I was running late for an appointment, I begin to rush… face first into the spa’s plate-glass door.

“Quite lucky you didn’t break it,” the doctor said the next day about my nose, which had swelled up to three times the size and turned various shades of black, blue and green. On the way out of his office, I became enlightened to the fact that I needed to slow down.

I’ve tried in the past to incorporate methods from various Eastern cultures into my life. But none seemed to take.

First came meditation.  For two months, while the rest of the group was discovering the mind/body relationship and realizing certain goals through a higher consciousness, I fell asleep.  It seemed, the instructor informed me, that I only knew two states of being, “stressed out or conked out.”

Years later it was Feng Shui.  My friend had just done his apartment and wanted to give mine a try.  But after we’d changed to position of mirrors, sharp-edged tables, added plants and colors to specific areas, he told me that my bathroom was in the worst place it could be and if there was any hope for my love life, I’d have to move.  Determined to hold onto my large one bedroom New York City apartment, I decided to take my chances.

But chance is not a word I rely on when it comes to my superstitions.   A frequent but fearful flier, I was (still am?) convinced that my last twenty some odd trips to Europe have been safely guided, not by control towers and careful pilots, but by wearing a thick silver chain dangling with weighty silver amulets.  This hefty rosary is a concoction of charms that my friends and family gave to me over the years.  The heavy metal makes the security beepers go off and my neck begins to feel like it should be in traction by the time I’m on the ground. But, the plane (knock on wood) has always landed.

When I’m not walking into plate glass doors or avoiding the possibility of plane crashes, my personal jewelry style supersedes superstition.  Authentic period or antique inspired styles are on the top of my list. As far as contemporary jewelry, I prefer delicate pieces that I can layer and stack, mine and rose cut diamonds and rubies.   I also wear huge men’s vintage watches and cuff links.

However, a couple of years back, after having my tarot cards read at a party, it occurred to me that I have been indulging my irrational beliefs and negative thoughts, “what if-ing” too much, and instead I decided, to try once again, to be more spiritual and do things that invited positive energy into my life.

Giving up my aerobics of Latin Grooves or sculpt classes at the gym for chanting and meditative yoga was just not a sacrifice I was willing to make after working out for years to get my abs and gluts in shape.

But purchasing and wearing spiritual and well-designed talisman jewelry was definitely something I could manage.

Off went my diamonds and platinum and on went high carat gold delicate medallions in varying length chains.

The first piece I chose was a small 18K gold Me &Ro medallion with a lotus leaf in the center for renewal, transformations and new beginnings. (Translation: forget commitment phobic ex boyfriend and find new one.)

Next I layered a rough-cut aquamarine for courage and a better understanding of others and myself. (Maybe this summer I will manage a week vacation with my family without wanting to strangle a sister-in-law.)

At 18 inches, I clasped on a Ganesha etched pendant, the God of strength and fortitude, which promotes success by removing obstacles.  (I would stop stubbing my toe on the magazines pile that doubles as an end table in my apartment.  A more organized living space would eventually lead to an uncluttered mind. )

Dangling at 22” was a flat cut diamond set Tree of Life by Coomi that evokes deeper grounding and faith. This is obviously something I need more of in all aspects of my life.

I wore four other charms/pendant that hung at varying lengths with symbolic meanings and motifs.

Reluctant about the rules regarding weakening the power of my new necklaces by taking them off to shower and sleep, I decided not to risk it and woke up every morning to untangling seven chains.  Add to that, nothing seemed to change or be happening.

Not known for my patience, I was about to retire my “good luck” charms to the recesses of my jewelry box when I notice they made for an extremely fashionable look.  Worst case, if they didn’t work, at least I’d be draped in the latest trends of yellow gold, layering, rough cut stones, medallions and charms.

The trend continued in popularity and I change them up for a variety of talisman and meaningful pieces, I’ve collected over the years. I’ve also learned fly without my silver amulets, almost got the hang of rhythmic breathing in my new yoga class, try and believe in the good, let go of a little control and have some faith.  And, as a diamond and platinum girl by nature, I’ve also mastered a few creative combinations of mixing spirituality with a bit of bling.

Dogeared's gold dipped engraved lotus pendant, representing new beginnings.

Dogeared's gold dipped engraved lotus pendant, representing new beginnings

Here are some designers I recommend who have some beautifully crafted symbolic pieces. Designers working primarily in gemstones: geodes, minerals rough and raw cuts: Jamie Joseph, Melissa Joy Manning, Kimberly McDonald and Lena Skadegard jewelry For motif driven styles: ME & RO, whose designer Robin Renzi’s vision jump started the trend for spiritual jewelry that is also fashionable. Her pieces, which have featured in many films and TV shows, are worn by longtime fan Julia Roberts in Eat, Pray Love. (Roberts also wore Renzi’s jewelry in The Mexican and Notting Hill as well). Other designers working in this medium who create alluring pieces Mauri Pioppo, Sofia Kaman for Kamofie and Dogeared, whose founder, Marcia Maizel-Clarke has always offered a host of contemporary versions of spiritual and message collections  and has now partnered with Sony Pictures for the license for Eat Pray Love by Dogeared jewelry.

Mauri Pioppo's pendant representing an Avatar in its celestial grace resonates with us to live in our highest potential. With Rainbow Moonstone in 14K gold and diamonds

Jamie Joseph's Twin rock crystal and rose gold pendant with oxidized silver chain. Rock crystal has various meanings including enlightenment

Sofia for Kamofie Designs Tree of Life Locket in 18K gold symbolizing grounding and faith

©2010B-Jeweled. Beth Bernstein. All Rights Reserved.

August 6, 2010

Stoned Love

Lika Behar

Recently I attended a jewelry trade show in New York City and was holding a pair of turquoise and gold earrings up to my ears, when a colleague told me how they brought out the blue in my eyes. I suddenly had a flashback to when I was 12 and was watching my mom get dressed. She said exactly the same thing, while dangling her Zuni turquoise and sterling earrings close to my face. It was during the early seventies, after she and my dad got divorced. She was reading Erica Jong’s Fear of Flying, going to EST and doning clothes and jewelry that represented the youth culture (read: everything that I too was wearing). She was also dating a younger gorgeous French Canadian artist, who also wore turquoise: in beads knotted with leather cording around his wrist. I was pre-teen in a time when this particular stone represented freedom, feminism, left-over hippies and moms who were finally putting aside Dr Spock parenting to live out their own youth.

My first piece of turquoise was given to me two years earlier, when, in fifth grade, a boy asked me to go steady with a sterling silver and turquoise ring. Three weeks later, after it turned my finger green, the boy broke my young heart when he changed his mind, took back the band, and gave it to one of my closest friends instead. Recently, while hearing stories from my nephews, I remembered that this is actually how long relationships last when you are pre-adolescent. Somehow this knowledge didn’t help back then.

Later in high school, American Indian jewelry was back in style as were early ’60s fashions: peasant shirts and rainbows motifs, which I artfully embroidered on my left Levis jeans pocket (thankfully 501 boot cut rather than bell bottoms). I owned two cuff bracelets with chunks of greenish turquoise and a pair of deep blue and silver chin length dangles.

I started making body chains in college with tiny little turquoise beads and delicate chain that would sit between my waist and my hips. One would think I was going out belly dancing rather that to a Disco, where they played songs like It’s Raining Men.

The next time I wore turquoise, I was turning thirty. My boyfriend, a humorous but barely-scraping -by writer, handed me a small box. At this point I knew the relationship would not last–not because I would have preferred an engagement ring– not because he re-gifted a band his college girlfriend gave to him–but because it was almost the exact same inlaid style that I received from the guy in fifth grade. Not only was I choosing similar men. They were giving me the same jewelry.

< Not long after, I dated a guy who said that my eyes were the color of turquoise and that he could see forever in them. Forever came a week later, when I found out he was seeing a woman with whom he worked and whose eyes were the same hue as…smoky topaz.

I have had very mixed emotions about turquoise. I’ve learned that it’s one of the earliest protective amulets from various cultures and ranges in meaning from luck, good fortune, friendship and courage. But, you can understand why I might be a little skeptical: my experience with the stone represented failed relationships with more than one guy. In addition, fine jewelry enthusiasts couldn’t help but equate turquoise with the same 70s I grew up in, conjuring up caftans and artist communities and for me, personally, the days of my parent’s divorce, my mom’s dressing like me and snagging a cuter boyfriend than I had.

Since then,the only time I pulled out my American Indian jewelry was when I found out, last-minute, that I’d be trick or treating with my niece and nephews (then 10, 7 and 5, respectively). I had to come up with a costume on the fly and grabbed a suede skirt, denim shirt, old Tony Lama boots, and accessorized with my Zuni earrings, cuffs and a turquoise tipped leather lariat I found. Okay, the small Stetson that was part of my youngest nephew’s everyday playacting didn’t hurt. But I am convinced that my cowgirl Halloween outfit was made by the jewelry.

When I finally began to perfect my own style, I realized that I did like certain pieces laden with these stones. I preferred the Victorian looks of turquoise pave set hearts and sentimental styles: lockets and posy rings accented by tiny cabochons. I also realized that the warmth of gold imbued turquoise with quite a different feeling then I had known.

Then, around ten or so years ago, I started noticing designers such as Cathy Waterman, Loree Rodkin, Cathy Carmendy and Ten Thousand Things were showing turquoise with gold from the most delicate of dangling beads to more substantial stones with diamond accents. It was a look that had antique or ancient inspirations, which I found intriguing in the real thing, but with a new modern spin. These designers helped give turquoise a complete makeover from what it had come to represent in the US.

Not long after, companies with a spiritual or meaningful slant such as ME&RO, Satya Jewelry and Dogeared used small turquoise beaded necklaces to dangle symbolic pendants and discs. And of course there were power beads. Everywhere.

Although individualistic designers never stopped including the soothing hues of this gem in their collections, the major trend towards turq quieted down, But it seems to be back in a big way. Pantone deemed it’s PANTONE 15-5519 Turquoise, as the Color of the Year for 2010. So, it’s definitely time to resurrect your antique or contemporary pieces , your pendants on beads if you have them, or go out purchase some original looks that combine the best of vintage, ancient and modern.

All of the interest is in high karat gold. Some of my favorite looks are the long teardrop earrings and bold irregular shaped turquoise pendant with the serpent motif at Lika Behar, the large oval rose cut turquoise extra long bezel set pendants and simple cuffs at Dawes Designs, the Gobi turquoise pieces at Gurhan, which are ultra rich looking in 24K gold, the delicate bezel set delicate turquoise cabochon necklace at Katie Diamond in varying lengths.. Erica Courtney showed beautiful turquoise rectangular shaped earrings that are held by more delicate crown pave prongs. Anzie does an entire collection with the stones as the focal point in simple gold settings.

Personally, I believe that all color –in high-end, fine pieces –is seasonless. If the fashion industry could get women to wear white before Memorial Day and after Labor Day, I stand firm about wearing turquoise year round as well. For me it’s a stone that will always make my eyes seem bluer and remind me that life is a series of experiences that when you glance back, might make you smile and remind you of how you can change.

Gurhan

Cathy Waterman

Katie Diamond

©2010B-Jeweled. All Rights Reserved.

July 26, 2010

Too Hot to Handle

Lauren Harper

I usually like it hot. In winter, I sleep in cashmere and hang out in down “booties” style slippers that might be suitable for Alaska.  Yes, I am a sight, but at least I am cozy and warm in my Manhattan apartment. One winter, I remember it being so cold both inside and outside that I thought I would have to re-size all of my rings because they would fly off of my fingers every time I moved my hands. Instead, I went ring-less that year, which for me, is like going without lipstick or mascara for most women.

This summer, however, when I walk out the door, Manhattan’s heat wave feels as if I walked into a pizza oven, with humidity that makes Florida look arid.   Yesterday, I headed from my Greenwich Village apartment to Union Square and then to Soho and my fingers swelled up so much that they were twice the size and there was no way of getting them free from the bands that bind.  No amount of lotion, cream, running water, ice, or holding my hands it in front of the air-conditioner, (or all combined) released the grip that was blowing up my right ring and left index finger and turning my them a purplish cast.

And, no way I was winding up in emergency room on a Saturday night with the explanation of being strangled by my rings. No intern was slicing a few of my favorite styles (some were eternities–another, an 1880’s emerald with an engraved shank), which even the best of trained jewelers would be hard pressed to put perfectly back together.

Eventually I cooled down, literally and figuratively, woke up in the middle of the night, and although they didn’t exactly slide off my fingers, the swelling was somewhat down and I eventually got them off.

Moral of this story: when it’s sweltering outside, there are still some hot styles and a few tips when wearing rings in summer:

-Cut your stackables to half the amount you usually wear or chose one statement ring for summer instead.

-Don’t wear looks that are too wide all-around, as there is no room to maneuver these as your begin to notice your fingers blowing up.

-Keep antiques for a different time. You don’t want to have anyone mess with these, should you not be as lucky as I was.

Katie Diamond

Once I was able to bend my knuckles again, I thought of some rings that have a big, bold feeling in the front but have a tapered or thinner shank and also seasonless and lighter weight than they appear:  Katie Diamond’s rose gold garden motif, which has a feminine cluster in front, Lauren Harper’s triangular morganite style with diamond accents, Nam Cho’s round moonstone cabochon with pave diamonds, Temple St. Clair’s oval opal with small sapphire accents and Jamie Joseph’s pave diamond looks.

Oh, and I found that as wonderful as lush lotions with essential oils  (Kiehl’s, Sabon, L’Occitane, and Molton Brown–I tried all) are for creating soft, smooth hands upon which to wear your jewels, there’s nothing like pure olive oil  (any brand will do) for slipping out of your too tight rings.

July 14, 2010

Coveting Continuity

Alberian & Aulde

I am a creature of habit: I’ve been getting my hair cut by the same person for 17 years, and from various photos, I notice the actual style hasn’t changed for the same amount of time. I keep my doctors till they retire, some boyfriends, long past our expiration date, and have loved all shades of purple since I was six. I have long time friendships, perhaps older than some of my new friend’s ages and I don’t give up on family easily.  But I wouldn’t describe this as being set in my ways or myself as someone who can not move forward– I prefer to think of it more of an appreciation of continuity, rather than an aversion to change.

So when I see that certain symbols in jewelry are continuous in their lifespan, sometimes going out and coming back into style and other times taking on different meanings, it makes me happy, especially if they represent longevity and enduring friendship or love. I am not talking about the smiley face or any other symbols that have to do with the seventies, a particular time period in which my mother was rebelling and borrowed my jewelry and….bell bottom jeans…and looked better in them than me.

I get excited when jewelry has sentiment and significance attached to it–a story to be told –and I usually prefer if it’s not spelled out in words but shows up more discretely in a motif or a silhouette. And, I appreciate it even more when the piece is anything but basic, representing history yet evoking the original sensibility of the designer creating it.

The circle, for example has been an endless source of inspiration for jewelry designers, showing up in more variations than I can count, reflecting permanence and a symbol that cannot be broken

One of my personal favorites, which I’ve kept in my jewelry wardrobe but continues to sell and should not be missed is Alberian & Aulde’s delicate 3-D Gaia pendant with vitreous glass enameling and tiny diamonds and sapphires. Each time I wear it, I discover another detail about it, some element that I didn’t notice the first time, that surprises and delights me, much like the way I’d like relationships to go and grow.

When I am feeling a bit more nostalgic, I reach for John Apel’s pendant that reminds me of an antique eternity band like the one  my dad gave my mom, and that I have worn for years. It’s a geometric pattern of marquis and round shaped rose cut diamonds in platinum and is understated and discrete in its beauty.

In the last year, I started being attracted to Celtic-inspired infinity motifs again. The first time one was ever purchased for me was by an Irish lad from Dublin, who I was seeing in my late ’20s and who explained that “it stood for our eternal love,” which all would have been grand, if he wasn’t engaged to someone else. For years I shelved the pendant– and that motif–not only because of my personal experience (although that weighed heavily) but because many of the interpretations weren’t very interesting to the fine jewelry lover, when re-created in oxidized Mexican silver.

But, last September, I saw Damiani’s Victorian version, an entwined knot of pavé diamonds, made with the Italian traditional of craftsmanship–and fell for this newer translation, sort of in the way I moved on from soulful lilts to the curled vowels of a Milanese man.

True to my heart, my feminine tastes and my affinity for all things enduring, I found Penny Preville’s diamond Infinity pendant makes a great self purchase item (for me), a meaningful gift for friends, and a thoughtful bridal party present.

Change is always good if it moves you forward, but it’s always nice to find comfort in the things around you that continue to endure.

All original content is ©Beth Bernstein 2010. No words may be reproduced without permission from the copyright holder.

©2010B-Jeweled. All Rights Reserved.

Penny Preville

July 8, 2010

Jewel-aholic

vibes: ila & i: christine mackellar: stephen webster

Recently, at one of the jewelry trade shows in Las Vegas, as I was doing a little personal shopping (as in, for myself–not for other people) one of my favorite designers and friends dubbed me a jewel-aholic. He caught me in the act of both seriously reviewing and also perusing a neighboring collection, trying on different rings and checking the upside down price tag . He knew, from that moment that I was going to buy one of the pieces and my new title seemed to be confirmed.

I’d never thought of myself as having an addictive personality. I gave up smoking three and half years ago, cold turkey, after a two pack a day habit. I never replaced it with food, just an over load of exercise till the cravings wore off. The only exception was perhaps my shopping sprees at the three B’s, Barneys, Bergdorf’s and Bendels. I can easily make a case for everything I bought back then: When it was chilly, I needed cashmere, for dating: La Perla lingerie. And, my closet was like a shelter for all black pants and LBDs. No style was turned away. Hey, I live in NYC.

Yet, I can now walk past a pair of shoes, (even with 40% off sale going on) and leave handbags hanging, unless you count the two times a year I travel to Italy. Oh, and if we are being totally honest, I am no longer attracted to unavailable men, (unless, you once again count the two times a year I travel to Italy…and see my ex).

But as far as baubles bangles and all things sparkly go, I must confess, my name is Beth and I AM a jewel-aholic. Have been since I wouldn’t let the tiara go without a major tantrum in Saks Fifth Avenue when I was six. The denial stops here.

I have given up all other fashion vices to accommodate my jewelry habit. I don’t think I qualify for a 12 step program unless some of those steps include buying antiques (as they appreciate with time), only wearing real gems since CZs just doesn’t cut it and…well… “God grant me the serenity to know”… when trends change and which of them will last.

Here are a couple I’m coveting for summer and beyond.

Going Natural: Christine Mackellar’s naturalistic bangles in 18K gold and blackened silver and gold mixed with rough and polished stones can be worn three at a time in this mix or one two or all can be combined with additional bangles in your existing jewelry wardrobe

Enchanted Gardens: Vibes rough gray diamond, set in a feminine motif of flower sprays and accent diamonds, can take you through warm sunny days but is also truly a collector’s item.

Modern Heirloom: Stephen Webster mixes old world Victorian charm with Rocker Chic in this bold silver and gemstone pendant and the contrast is just right for wearing with the new menswear-inspired looks and well into the future.

Keeping It Simple: The rough and refined look that is being shown by fine jewelry designers is translated with a more dainty feminine flair at Lika Behar in this bracelet with flexible diamond line front and silk cord, finished by a high karat gold and pearl clasp.

Sentimental Journey: ila&i’s blackened silver and 18K gold locket with center rose cut stone is both current and reflective of earlier times. It’s a sentimental keepsake to hold loved ones close to your heart with an edgy contemporary slant.

Budding Trends: Studs continue to be one of the items to purchase this season in fine jewelry. Rebecca Overman’s 18K gold freeform rose with a diamond center offers a simple elegant approach to the look.

Take A Dip: Alberian & Aulde’s rose cut sapphire station chain which doubles as a lariat offers a subtly sexy look when it dips down to the decollatage. Best feature about this piece is its unstudied appeal, allowing the wearer to bring their own personal style to it.

lika behar: alberian & aulde: rebecca overmann